This area contains the messages from the old Yahoo cadintoshmac group after the port.
5 posts • Page 1 of 1
Attachments :Here's where it starts gett'n interest'n. I've made this part for years and need a print out copy on the new system. If I can find it in an old e-mail I'll attach a copy of a scanned print. But here we go.Open up a dwg in inches, A4 portrait, 3 decimal. I use pen #2. Get the scale close to 100%. [See below --- I know how now] RENAME it if you got it from a stored file.1st select Lines [any] the groups didn't work right for me in a few other modes.Note: You can also set the basic point by click'n in the co-ord box & follow'n the prompts.Drag the x-hairs to the lower right corner. Hit command -G to open up the symbols dialog. Open yer symbols lib. and move 'em to the left to yer work'n dwg. Hit OK.Command-J brings up the list dialog. Hit delete [unless it's set on 1" C/L] then return for the symbols. Select 1" C/L.The prompt will ask for co-ords. Enter -1.460, 1.650 & return. Next it will ask for the scaling factors. Enter 0, 2.875,3.300. Hit return. Ta-Da! A set of scaled C/L's should appear.Next insert the group for the lr cor Zero Cor. That's the one for top left rotated. Try a symbol scale factor of .6 (x&y) and a rotation of 180°. Put it @ Ø/Ø. If you like this, great, if no, there are several way to redo. Command-Z is pbly the easiest [back up and redo].Since we're into groups, let's put in a couple of tapped holes. Command -J again. Select 1" tapped hole. Enter -.322, 2.953 as the co-ords. Rotation is 0 and the scales are .25. Viola!. The other hole goes 2.606 lower. Command-J and return, the last symbol should still be selected. Now, on the far right end of the prompt line is a down pointing select arrow. Hit it. This brings up the last entries you put in the prompts. Select the last co-ords, they will appear in the prompts. Change the Y value to .347 and hit return. Go back to the arrow and select the last scale factors. Hit return. If all went well, you now have 4 symbols on the dwg.I did the center circles next. Select Auto Entry mode, far right box under prompts. Select Circle->Ctr & Rad [right hand click button]. Draw 2 circles, rad. 1.140" & .940".Change to line style 2, dashed, and draw another circle of 1.062" rad. Graphic-> apply style, or 2nd left box below prompt, tool pallet pen change. Follow the prompt.Now let's do the outlines. Select Line->angle. Draw a line from Ø/Ø 3.300 straight up: select start w/ mouse in auto & enter 90, 3.3. Continue w/ a line @ 180° & 2.5. Select Line->parallel & draw a line 3.3 below the top horz line.Another way to draw a rectangle is Special->rounded rect. Select any corner and enter length/width, either + or -. In this case, start @ Ø/Ø, set #'s to -2.875 & 3.300. Set cor rad @ Ø. Hit return.Select Arc-> 3 points. The 3 points are -1.86,0; -2.875,1.650; & -1.860, 3.300. I don't think it matters what order. And the last point can be pulled back from the bottom prompt entry list [arrow on right] & edited. For start & finish angles, select 90, 270. Doesn't matter, the trim will close the figure.Select Trim->split. Click the top line & then the left side of the arc. Hit escape. Click the bottom line & then the arc again. Hit escape. Click the arc. and then the tag ends of the top & btm lines. Select Trim->trim and get rid of the 4 tag ends.Now come the 2 island on the right. Draw a parallel line .760 to the left of the right side. Line-> parallel. Draw an arc w/ a ctr @ the C/L x-hairs of 1.388 rad from angle 270 to 90. Split the .760 vert line on the arc. Trim the arc and the ctr of the line. Trim->split & Trim->trim.Draw a line from x=-.405, y=.749 to x=0 y=.892. Line->point to point. Select Transform->mirror, follow prompts. Use the horz. C/L as the mirror axis. Split & trim the center of the arc.Select Trim->fillet. Select the top left line of the island, select right side of top line, select .15 as rad,. Repeat on other island.In case yer wonder'n, the "N" in the top right small menu is a redraw button, same as F12. The top symbol is "save".=====================================Now to do the elevation view:Shrink the dwg to about 50%, minus bar in top right menu. Move dwg up so ya got room below for the next view;Transform->move by dx, dy. Say x=0 y=4 Draw a rect w/ low rt cor @ 0,0 1.325 high & 2.875 wide. Place a Ø/Ø symbol on the left lower cor. Command-J, R zero cor, 180,.6,.6Draw and extend a Vert C/L in the rect. Draw a vert line 1.137 to the left of ctr. draw a line .565 parallel from the btm===============Line extensions!! select free mode and then set a point to trim to Trim->trim, set point select line. I knew there hadta be an easy way.New trick! To get back to any scale click in the scale factor, top right, and enter the desired scale factor in the prompt line!======================Draw parallel line .940 left of C/L. Trim this line btw the top and .565 line. Trim the .565 line @ the C/L. Draw a vert line 1.137 left of the C/L & trim the 1.137/.565 cor. This describes the inside of the bore.Draw a horz C/L .350 up from the btm thru the wall of the part. Extend as desired. This is the place where the 1/4-20 clamp bolts go. Split the vert o/s line at the intersection. Trim->split.In auto mode Line-> angle using this as a start go .5 or so down -75°. Trim this line @ the btm. we're look'n for a 15° bevel here. Mirror this line about the .350 C/L. Delete the rest of the left side vertical line.Draw parallel lines to the btm @ .700 & 1.0, draw parallels to vert C/L @ 1.062 & 1.140. Trim lines to make a notch in the wall.Draw a parallel line on the left 1.225 up from the bottom trimmed @ the C/L and 1.140 line. Chamfer the top left cor. Trim->chamfer, enter .05, 45, and 2 @ the prompt. In the 3rd place 0 means no trim, 1 means trim 1st line & 2 means trim both.Now on the right: Draw a vert parallel line 1.0 left of right edge. Draw horz line .700 up from btm. Trim the right side so the island stands up on right. Select Line->angle and draw a line down to the left from x=0, y=.559, @ -60°, .6. Trim the corner off [fender clearance]Select command-E & 1/4 tapped hole. Paste it @ x=-.322, y=.325. These are the x-bar holes.Enuf for the day M'be 2mrw we'll work w/ section lines, Hatching, and then dimensions. Whew!
At 2005-04-26 12:16 -0700 email@example.com wrote: >Draw parallel lines to the btm @ .700 & 1.0, draw parallels to vert C/L>@ 1.062 & 1.140. Trim lines to make a notch in the wall. Tkat - I think the second of the above dimensions should be 0.85" instead of 1". >Now on the right: Draw a vert parallel line 1.0 left of right edge. I think this should be 0.76", not 1". I found it just as handy to extend the line of the island from the plan view above and then split & trim as necessary. that's the way I'd have done it back in the days of pencil & paper, anyway. >Select Line->angle and draw a line down to the>left from x=0, y=.559, @ -60°, .6. The angle here should be -120 not -60. >Select command-E & 1/4 tapped hole. Paste it @ x=-.322, y=.325. These>are the x-bar holes. The way this turned out on my drawing made me go back and check your posting on symbols. I now see that you have made your symbol catch point the _bottom_ of the tapped hole; I didn't notice that and thought the top was the more intuitive place. I'm sticking with that, and just need to change my y co-ordinate to 1.325" to get it in the right place.Sorry if I seem to be over-picky - but if we're trying to get the documentation more user-friendly, then it needs to be as right as possible!regardsRowland-- : Wilma & Rowland Carson <http://home.clara.net/rowil/>: <firstname.lastname@example.org> ... that's Rowland with a 'w' ...
On May 10, 2005, at 9:16 AM, Rowland Carson wrote: >> Tkat - I think the second of the above dimensions> should be 0.85" instead of 1". You're correct for the dwg. My bad. The new dwg is an up grade that had to incorporate when I found a wider slot in some later model forks. >> >Now on the right: Draw a vert parallel line 1.0 left of right edge.>> I think this should be 0.76", not 1". I found it> just as handy to extend the line of the island> from the plan view above and then split & trim as> necessary. that's the way I'd have done it back> in the days of pencil & paper, anyway. I was just starting. I'd have to go back & check. As my Wise Ol' G'pappy said, "There's lots of ways to get to New York." >> >Select Line->angle and draw a line down to the> >left from x=0, y=.559, @ -60°, .6.>> The angle here should be -120 not -60. Correct. I misplaced the "-". Should be 60°, -.6 >> >Select command-E & 1/4 tapped hole. Paste it @ x=-.322, y=.325. > These> >are the x-bar holes.>> The way this turned out on my drawing made me go> back and check your posting on symbols. I now see> that you have made your symbol catch point the> _bottom_ of the tapped hole; I prefer the btm as one generally knows the depth of a blind hole and it's easier to prune the top lines > Sorry if I seem to be over-picky - but if we're> trying to get the documentation more> user-friendly, then it needs to be as right as> possible! Absolutely!! Thanks for the close-up scrutiny. >> TkatFor every action, there is an equal and opposite government program.
At 2005-05-10 14:39 -0700 email@example.com wrote: >I prefer the btm as one generally knows the depth of a blind hole and>it's easier to prune the top lines Tkat - of course, that is much more sensible - I was working on the assumption of creating a separate symbol for every length of tapped hole.However, you have to remember always to insert & explode if you want to trim it - it appears you can't trim bits off symbols that are inserted without exploding.Thinking on some more, I suppose that using appropriate scaling factors when inserting the symbol one could use a single symbol to represent any diameter & length of tapped hole.regardsRowland-- : Wilma & Rowland Carson <http://home.clara.net/rowil/>: <firstname.lastname@example.org> ... that's Rowland with a 'w' ...
>> However, you have to remember always to insert & explode if you want> to trim it - it appears you can't trim bits off symbols that are> inserted without exploding. Absolutely. I just automatically punch cmd-J. I chose 1/4" as the dia. as it's the most common in my world. 2nd option would be unity for both length & Ø. Unity for the length makes scaling a snap.And for the length of time I've been draw'n lines, I know the scale factors btw the rest of the common thds & 1/4-20's. >> Thinking on some more, I suppose that using appropriate scaling> factors when inserting the symbol one could use a single symbol to> represent any diameter & length of tapped hole.> Hummmmmm...........I like yer thot. If the design calls for 1/4-20 x .75 holes, could the scale factor for the symbol be entered as (x),1,.75? Then moving the grab point to the top would be the most logical. Given a break, I'll have to play w/ it.Tkat"If money doesn't grow on trees, why do banks have branches?"